원정 개요

BC at Lungsampa Glacier
C3 on SE Face
C4 on SE Face (not slept in)
High point at C4 site on SE Face.

2 Korean teams climbed together (Kang Duk-Moon & Min Byung-Nam)

11 Oct arrived C4 11:00 pm in full moonlight, too much snowing and very strong windy so immediately down to C3 (new snow avalanching to C4 site); returned C3 midnight and now big ice avalanching: 4 people hit on heads and 3 running and left and almost all equipment in C3 swept away, so slept in C2, arriving 2 am.

Between C2 and C3 accident: Pasang Nima, Pemba Gyalzen and Pasang Nuru Sherpa* carrying equipment from old C1 (now depot) to new C1 hit by avalanche 20 Sept and swept 400-500m into crevasses and died (buried by avalanche). (1 or 3-4 Sept made C1 at 5700m at top of couloir and moved to 6100m). This accident delayed progress to C4.

* These three Sherpas were hired by expedition in the mountains but all came from Phortse says trekking agent.