원정 개요

BC at Pangpema
C1 below first snowfall
C2 at second snowfield (same as Japanese 1980 C2)
High point at North Face.

24th Oct Monier attacked main difficulty of route between 7000 and 7200m; reached 7100m and fixed 50m rope in his descent. Down to BC. Waited there till 20 Oct, when went to C1, 30th to C2; 30 cm snowfall during night of 30/31 (this his only 2nd summit bid). Waited for snow to stabilize, then 3rd broke tent, which he had planned to take up mountain again down to BC to wait for wind to abate. But wind did not drop high up and on 7th decided to give up. Should have arrived earlier at BC.

This his first autumn season in Nepal, Had planned to climb alpine-style from C2 taking this tent with him. None of other team members went above BC.