원정 개요

BC at normal site
C2 at top of ridge on SE Face.

Before making summit attempt on 16th went up to Col (shoulder) 6550m night to acclimatize and then to go to BC to rest, so 1st attempt on summit itself was on 16th. This summit bid by first pair, Ponce and Minakata, as according to plan left BC 15 Oct and arrived at C2. 16th left C2 for top 4:00 am on 16th, arrived at col 8:30 am and top 2 pm, returned to C2 for night at 6:00 pm and to BC on 17th. More technical than expected in entire route and C2 and Col more exposed to avalanche than expected.

Germans who had made attempt to summit on 12th and encountered huge crevasse across the East Ridge at 6850m extending from Nepal side to Tibet side and they reported it was almost impossible to reach top. On 16th Mexicans and Germans climbed together (Germans had very experienced leader and climbing Sherpas), so Mexicans went to Gorak Shep to buy more rope and had as their goal to get at least to crevasse with Germans. Mexicans fixed their rope with Germans at crevasse and reached top together.

2nd summit bid Horta, Buenrostro and Ponce again. Went 20 Oct to C2, left C2 at 2:00 am on 21st but could not reach Col because of very cold strong wind from south and ice screws and snow bars were loose and pieces of ice falling on them. "So we descended" all way to BC.

Carrion and Rouret left BC on 17th as originally planned (had reached C2).