원정 개요

BC 100m above Kalapattar at south end of avalanche area
C1 on ridge on SE Face
C2 on top of ridge.

Put fixed rope "quite high" up to 7000m. Attempted summit 2 times unsuccessfully. Problem with big crevasse and avalanche slope on 9th and crevasse here and 12th avalanche problem on slope. In successful attempt found way towards left end of crevasse where was good ice-snow bridge and not so wide. Put 100m rope here. 16th summit bid by 4 members and 2 Sherpas starting at 4:00 am. Dressen turned back at 6400m because feet cold, while others went to top at 12:45 and 1:20 pm and returned to C2 about 4:30 pm together. C2 at 6200m is slightly low, but if make camp at East Col and then it snows, can be trapped there. Leader fixed much rope. Big serac hanging over C2 at 6600-6700m on East Ridge. Going to top you climb behind this serac, but it can be dangerous for those below.