원정 개요

West Pillar route
BC at below south of Barun Pokhari
ABC first on just below junction of Barun and Chago Glacier
C1 first start of West Pillar

South Pillar-South Col route
C1 on 13 at South Ridge (Czechoslovakia route)
C2 just below South Col

Northwest side route
2nd ABC
3rd C1 at Chago Glacier
2nd C2 at Chago Glacier moved on 5th Jan to 6900m just below La
High point at very near Makalu La


First C1 at 5800m at start of West Pillar's approach, then Wielicki felt team not strong enough to continue on to pillar and decided to change route and go to SE Ridge via South Col and climb along SE Ridge.

Made 2nd C1 at 5400m and a C2 at 6400m but then on 20 Dec C2 blown away like flying carpets over the ridge into Tibet so abandoned this attempt.

Made a new ABC at 5300m at junction of Cuzo and Barun Glacier on 22nd for normal route. Fixed 200m towards Makalu La. Tried to go to Makalu La but after 3 attempts to do so, abandoned climb altogether because too windy. Lost C1 and C2 to winds and nearly 40 days on mountain and this really practical maximum. Decided 12 Jan to stop because would take at least a week to rebuild camps. Impossible to sleep at end because of constant noise (like jet engines) of wind. Otherwise weather was "beautiful" with sunshine and very few slight snowfalls, but after dust in air (just like KTM).

Wielicki wants to do all 5 highest 8000ers in winter (has done Everest, Kangchenjunga and Lhotse).