원정 개요

BC at Yamotari Glacier
C1 at left edge of another glacier
C2 above icefall below 2 towers
C3 right below 1st tower on a subsidiary ridge to S Ridge.

2 towers are difficult to get to mountain; between C2 and C3 another most difficult section and fixed ropes here. Total 1800 ft fixed, 1500 of it between C2 and C3. Getting around 2 towers continuously technical climbing. Had temporary camps above C3, moving tents upward. 21 Oct at 6140m. Weather was perfect in these days until we reached 7050m at top of summit wall, just one day below summit, where winds started up. Stayed 2 nights but wind continued without stop and even got worse. Went down on 29th because of wind, low supplies and time running out. Had excellent snow conditions.

Next time will fix the wall and in bad weather go down quickly.