원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 (really a deposit - slept in once)
C3 (edge of Great Shelf)
High point on Great Shelf.

After making C3 sleeping there down to BC to rest. Up again for summit bid on 6 Oct by Jaros, Moravek, Lhakpa Dorje and Tsomba from BC. 7th slept in C2, 8th in C3 and 9th attempted to go on up, keeping on surface and making C4 at about 8000m on 9th and then to top on 10th. But strong winds started up and drove them back from 7400m so down to BC same day with all other members.

Simunek, Vomackova, Lhakpa Dorje and Tsomba decided to try climb once more and on 15 Oct and slept in C2, C3 on 16th, 17th came down because of wind.

3rd team of Jaros, Minarik and Moravek went to C3 17th to sleep, but next day 18th down because frostbite danger now. Very clear weather but terrible winds. Weather forecast bad so decided to abandon climb and all in BC again on 18th.

Variety in route with icefalls and shelves, rock, ice, snow made climb "interesting." Despite their rapid progress up to C3, having lost 2 days below BC arguing with porters about wages, "cut up the summit" because strong winds came just before 9 Oct.