원정 개요

BC at Jannu Glacier below North Face
C1 at top of 3000 ft rock buttress
High point on North Face directly below NW Col.

Lots of avalanche debris and deep snow (chest deep) and "we couldn't get anywhere." Tried couple of different ways, too much snow. We looked at other possibilities, but too much snow and sun touched face just before sunrise made things warm and everything was too dangerous from avalanches. At 18,000 ft a snow glacier, which one has to cross to get to North Face, was high, deep heavy wet snow which was a job to get a cross. Won't go to this face again. One reason is one would have to fix a lot of rope "and I'm not interested in fixing rope."