원정 개요

C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col (did not spend night).

The 4 summiters left C4 for top 10:30 pm 6th Oct. In his continous ski descent from summit to base camp, Davo used oxygen down to South Summit because it was cold and wanted clear head; but took off 6 kg Russian oxygen system at South Summit because of weight and not possible to see down, entirely unless lowering head completely. Negotiating Hillary Step besides fixed rope but bigger problem was steep ridge below step which had to descend with skis sideways. From South Summit first 30-40m also very steep and here made short turns. At South Col "very nice place" with snow covering all rubbish. From Col crossed Spur about 20m below its top and then down Lhotse Face with big turns. Kept very close to SW Face of Everest, where no avalanche problem but serious problem to see where to go because face not straight wall. Had help by walkie-talkie with members in C2, constantly thinking about avalanche danger, "this was real pressure - man can do nothing" if serac suddenly fell at him. Had no accidents. "You must have something inside" with strong motivation to get up to start. Left summit at 8:00 am and reached South Summit 8:20 am reached C4 at 8:40 am, C2 11:00 am and stopped for drink and waited for movie cameras to be ready from BC. Left C2 11:30, C1 11:50 am, BC on 12:40 pm. Total 4 hours 40 minutes from top to BC. No sleep between C4 up and return to BC but not immediately sleepy. Expected to take 5-7 hours. "Emotion did not come immediately." Left slowly over days. Wants to do all other 7 summits. Maybe use some special type "skis" but probably not at all on Karstenz and Kilimanjaro, only short distance of snow (has done Elbrus 1987).

2nd team of Tadej Golob, Lacen and Flis left C4 10:30 pm 8 Oct, on top 7:07 am and returned to C4 about 12:00 noon and down to lower camps.

Summit Sherpas:
Chuldim Dorje, aka Ang Dorje, 30, Pangboche, Ever X6 before
Pasang Tenzing, 23, Phortse, 1st 8000er


Ministry of Tourism: Shyam Kuikel - 17 Oct 2000

HMG does not recognize ski descents: have no rules for skiing, but no penalty.