원정 개요

BC at foot of valley at foot of West Rib
Biv half way up rib
C2 just above rib on summit plateau
C3 on SW Ridge.

2 teams because "I like to climb with only 1 other person," Paull said, but all friends. Each brought some of own food. Original plan was to have other team follow one day later but were 4 days behind. 1st party down from biv at 5800m to BC via SW Ridge. Lots of unconsolidated snow on north-facing areas and 6 meter serac at top of rib which had sugar snow and needed aids. 1st team chose aids (pickets) and 2nd team through sugar snow. SW Ridge not so difficult in general with small problems occasionally. 2nd team had bivs at 5000m on 21st at top of icefall; 2nd biv on 22nd 5800m and 3rd at 6000m at 1st team's 2 sites. To top on 24th and down to last biv. BC on 25th via SW Ridge. Same route at '92 autumn New Zealand-Australia and 93 autumn USA-Sweden-Canada.

1st team then to Kusum Kanguru's SW Face/Buttress to South Ridge. Reached 200m below summit on much more difficult route technically than Cholatse.