원정 개요

C1 at start of SW Ridge
C3 at slightly lower than normal (under dablam).

C3 (actually C2 for this team but near normal C3) 20m below normal site because 6400m exposed to winds and 6380m under serac and protected from wind). Down to BC 1 Dec for 2 days rest and back to C3 on 5 Dec (4 British and Inaki: 1 Brit and Aussie had frostnip and left expedition 24-25 Nov; Benedict Clowes frostbite and left BC 2 Dec with Mooney, et al of Camp 5 group). 6 Dec 2 British not well and down to BC and 2 others and Inaki and 2 Sherpas to top (Stanford and Thomas Clowes).

Expedition composed of 5 British friends; 1 Australian with them; 1 Spaniard employed by organizers Himalayan Guides as guide/leader; 5 Americans and 1 Canadian signed up by Camp 5, the American organizers of treks and expeditions. The two groups had separate base camps, but above BC they shared same tents, food and Sherpas and climbed together as on expedition. HG group also were buffeted by winds as the Camp 5 group had been but in Nov winds slightly stronger. Mooney had date with girlfriend in KTM on 7 Dec, so left expedition and other remaining Camp 5 members, Jen and Norris, with him (Jen with frostbitten fingers).


Mooney - 6 Dec 00

Camp 5 group included people "who shouldn't have been there," technically not up to this climb. Stevens only visited BC on 18 Nov and left same day saying he had girlfriend problems. Dyer, who took her makeup kit to C1, tried to get to C3 but developed altitude sickness (pulmonary edema), so down to C1 for one night, then to BC and left expedition. Nelson visited C1 but did not sleep there and left expedition 19 Nov, not ready for the climb technically and mentally. That left 3 real climbers, Mooney, Norris and Jen, who climbed together but did not go above C3 because of cold strong winds (gusts of 80-100 km/hr which partially destroyed a tent they and Ochoa slept in night of 30 Nov, so all down to BC on 1 Dec. Camp 5 trio left BC 2 Dec and arrived KTM 4 Dec, Jen with frostbitten fingers that heal.