원정 개요

BC at north end of Lake Tilicho
C1 at NE Spur
C2 where spur reaches North Ridge.

Last day from C2 very long; would be better to place C2 200m higher along North Ridge (actually slightly on West Face and could be dangerous from avalanches of much snow). 8th Oct Georges Frey and his nephew started for top with 3 Gurungs. Refait turned back at 6805m because feet cold while others to top.

2nd summit bid by Phillipe Frey and Plessis but not above C2. Here slept 10th night only because too much snow and avalanche danger on West Face. Surprised by steepness of NE Spur.