한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

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Han Gab-Hyun

Dhaulagiri I · 2000 · 가을 (3) · S Korea

원정 개요

C3 for deposited supplies for C3 (not slept in)
High point below "Pear" on North Face (C3 site).

24 Sept deposited supplies at 6000m and to C3. 25 Sept all members and Sherpas down to BC for rest. 29th avalanche of snow 20 meters wide hit Lee-Kang party going up. Lee's backpack frame bent by what was either rock or ice block in avalanche snow. All members down to BC on 29th. We know very difficult on ridge above 7500m but never thought of danger below 6000m though many. Joo and leader want to return after 2 years or more to take picture of Lee to summit. Must be by same route. "I must come back."

Crevasse there, but never thought of avalanches.


Korean Dhaulagiri I - 5 Oct 2000

1st team: we separated 2 teams.
2nd team: Kim Jung-Dae, Joo Dong-Ho, Yoo Soon-Ook, Ha Tae-Young
Couple of days ago we made route near C3 so we deposit some equipment there and come back to BC. And we stay 3 days in BC.

27 Sept - Mr Lee was going to depot point (1-day stay)

28 Sept - Mr Lee was going to C1 and Mr Kang, Mr Jun also was going to C1: and 4:00 pm they met in C1. 3 Sherpas also going in C1. Stay C1 member is Mr Lee, Kang, Jun and 3 Sherpas. B team stayed in BC.

29 Sept - A team was going to C3 at 7:00 am. 2nd team started to C1 from 6:30 am and 3 Sherpas started later from C1 to C2. A team met avalanche of snow (8:20 am).

First Mr Jun, second Mr Lee, third Mr Kang. Mr Jun heard avalanche sound and running to the front towards C2 and turned his eyes. There's no man behind only snow. So Mr Jun returning to C1, he requested rescue to Sherpas and Mr Jun came back to accident area. He used stick to search our members and then Sherpas arrived, together they tried to find members.

AM 8:50 They found Mr Lee's backpack.
Mr Jun found a radio in his backpack and he told of this
accident to our members by radio. Mr Yoo and Mr Ha ran to C1.
Mr Joo ran to BC and went to Marpha to call to Korea.
Mr Kim stood by depot point with Mr Lim.

AM 9:10 They dug out Mr. Lee's body.
Mr Jun was doing artificial breathing for Mr Lee about 1 hour.
3 Sherpas were trying to find Mr Kang. Used stick and ice-axe.

AM 9:50 Mr Kang was pushed by snow and fell into a narrow crevasse.
He found his mind to look around. There was no light and he found
a radio and requested rescue. He was covered by snow, so Sherpas
didn't find him.

AM 9:58 Mr Kang used backpack frame and pushed up snow covering him and
cleared upside snow. Sherpa Nima Gyalzen saw that and rescued him.

AM 10:16 Sirdar and Mr Kang came back to C1.

AM 10:40 Mr Jun and 2 Sherpas confirm his body dead and they managed to put
his body in a sleeping bag.

AM 10:50 They carried his body to C1.

AM 11:20 2 Sherpas and Mr Jun arrived C1 with his dead body.

PM 12:30 Mr Yoo and Mr Ha arrived C1.

PM 13:40 Mr Kang and Mr Jun started to BC.

PM 14:00 3 Sherpas, Mr Ha and Mr Yoo carry the body.

PM 16:40 The body arrived depot point.

PM 18:10 All members came back to BC.

  • 내부 원정 ID3637
  • 원본 EXPIDDHA100301
  • 대장Han Gab-Hyun
  • 루트 (Route)N Face (Pear rte)
  • 최고 도달고도6000m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)

참가자 9명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Gab-Hyun HanS KoreaLeader---
Soo-Ho LeeS KoreaClimbing Leader--사망
Tae-Young HaS KoreaFilm Team---
Dong-Ho JooS KoreaClimber---
Jae-Woo JunS KoreaClimber---
Dong-Woo KangS KoreaClimber---
Jong-Dae KimS KoreaSupport---
Gab-Seung LimS KoreaClimber---
Soon-Ook YooS KoreaClimber---

출처·참고문헌

· 2000 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH