원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at normal site
C2 at bottom of NW Ridge - from to right of normal site
C3 near Spanish route to East Peak
2nd Biv at 100m below summit ridge to Roc Noir and East Summit
High point at 2nd biv.

Decided North Face direct too dangerous (big seracs), so best solution to go to climb East Summit and then traverse to Middle Summit and Main Summit. Placed C2 in very safe place, not in serac field. C2 is exposed to avalanching from left (Roc Noir) if there is much snowfall, but this team had not such bad weather. Only 10 minutes (300m) exposed area at 5600m. Profit and Dorje on 25 Oct to C2, 26 in C3. 27th make biv at 7200m. 28th intended to go up East Summit and see South, but Dorje's feet very cold so he could not get to top that day and they made a 2nd biv at 7400-7500m intending to go on 29th later in morning when warmer and Dorje's feet better. That night cyclone from Bangladesh forced them to sleep in shoes and 29th am wind terrible and decided to go down and wind blew away tent when they got out of it. So went down to BC same in strong winds. At BC dust from moraine was blown everywhere.

Meanwhile Blanchard and Gentet had gone on slightly different line from C3 and reached about same altitude intending to acclimatize. Perfect weather with no wind that night of 28th. "The best condition to go to summit" (Profit), but a little short in time to finish. No motivation from members to go again except one. "My idea was to go to C2 with Lhakpa (Sherpa) and go alone to East Peak and then if possible traverse to main summit." Possibility was dependent on ability to traverse slightly on south side. Had no intention to descend by any route except this French route because only it is safe on face. Profit later agreed that team had no high climbers except himself and Blanchard. Team decided on 28th that when Profit and Dorje came down to BC, the climb would be over. They were on a fixed schedule which they had no desire to change and they could not agree to staying on longer.

Profit is determined to come again and finish this climb on such a safe route with one friend who will climb high with him.