원정 개요

Mts: Changwatang, Nalakankar North and South peaks, and Takphu Himal, highest peak of Nalakankar range.

Nation: Japan. Leader: Tamotsu Ohnishi. Members at end: 12.
Climbing Sherpas: 4. Routes: see below with each peak.
Oxygen: none. Deaths, accidents, illness: none. Source: Ohnishi

Approach: air to Nepalgunj 2 June, air (helicopter) to Simikot 3 June. Trekked west to Kermi, north to Saja Khola and then east via Talsolu Khola for ascent of Changwatang (6125m). Arrived Changwatang base camp (5460m) on Talsolu Khola 23 June, pitched high camp (5738m) on 26 June, scaled West Face to summit on 28 June.

Changwatang summiters: Tamotsu Ohnishi, Koji Mizutani, Nobuo Akayama, Takehiko Yanagihara; Sherpas Chuldim Nuru and Dawa.

Returned to Saja Khola, north to Jokila (Gyo) Khola and west to Nalakankar base camp on east side of Nalakankar range. Arrived Nalakankar base camp (5373m) on Jokila Khola 3 July. First climbed Nalakankar North Peak (6062m). Arrived high camp (5733m) 6 July on east side of South Ridge; on same day climbed to south col and then up South Ridge to top by Yanigahara and Ang Phurba Sherpa on very easy snow and rock slope, taking 1.5 hours from high camp to top and 0.5 hours back to high camp. "Uninteresting climb - like ice cream scoop."

From same high camp, climbed Nalakankar South Peak (6024m) on 7th July. Climbers attacked in two separate parties. Party A: Ohnishi, Yanagihara, Chuldim Nuru and Kancha Dawa Sherpa took direct route up East Face to top (only four pitches of fixed rope on easy route icy face) in 2.45 hours and down South Ridge back to camp. Party B: Koji Mizutani, Mrs Noriko Mizutani, Isamu Fujimoto, Mrs Mitsuko Fujimoto, Akayama, Mrs Tazuko Inoue, Mrs Tomoko Sato, and Sherpas Ang Phurba, Ang Chuldim and Chuldim Dawa, went up North Ridge to top (only walking up rock with scattered snow patches) in 2.5 hours and then down South Ridge to same camp. All back in base camp on 7 July.

On 9 July, left base camp to attempt Nalakankar range highest peak, Takphu Himal, 6422m (according to a Chinese map and border map), called Til Kang by the local people of nearest village, Til (Tilgaon). Takphu is south of South Peak. Arrived at their base at (4300m) 14 July. 15 July moved to 4618m on valley floor and pitched camp there. Stayed in camp 16th and 17th. On 18th from east side, did easy rock climbing until stopped at 5373m by hanging glacier and too much rain; went back to Tilgaon same day. Summit attempted by: Ohnishi, Yanagihara, Koji Mizutani, Ang Phurba, Dawa, Chuldim Nuru.

Left Tilgaon on 21 July, trekked south-southwest one day to Hilsa village. 24th trekked east to Kermi and Simikot, arrived Simikot 28th and flew to Nepalgunj and Kathmandu same day.

June
6/2 KTM - Nepalgunj
6/3 Nepalgunj - Simikot
6/4 Simikot- Tuling Khola
6/5 - Kermi
6/6 - Shinjungma Khola
6/10 - Tongsa 4068m (altitude acclimatize)
6/15 - Serima tso
6/16 - Nyalu La
6/17 - Takuche
6/21 - Saja Khola
6/21 to - Changwatang (T. Ohnishi)
(K. Mizutani)
(N. Akayama)
(T. Yanagihara)
Sherpas: Chuldim Nuru and Dawa
6/22 Lalung Banjyang
6/24 5150m Banjyang
6/26 Talsolu Khola 5460m
6/27 camp 5238m
Attacked 6125m peak (Changwatang) from W Face
(N30 19 634)
E81 53 028
6/30 Saja Khola camp returned

July
7/1 Lapuche Banjyang
7/2 Gyo (Jokila) Khola
7/3 Nalakankar BC 5373m N30 22 320
E81 26 716 GPS

7/6 High camp 5733m N70 21 660
E81 24 866

Camp east side of South Ridge - from here to South Col of North Peak and up ridge to top. 1/2 hour very easy snow and rock slope.

Nalakankar (North) 6062m (from high camp 1:30 to summit)
South Ridge by Yanigahara and Ang Phurba and back to high camp in 1/2 hour from top.

7/7 (Attack) from high camp
Nalakankar (South) N30 21 180
E81 24 365

East Face: T. Ohnishi
T. Yanagihara
2 Sherpas: Chuldim Nuru, Dawa

Up North Ridge - South Ridge down
Mr/Ms Mizutani
Mr/Ms Fujimoto
Mr Akayama
Ms Luoue
Ms Sato
3 Sherpas Ang Phurba, Ang Tshering, Chuldim

All returned BC same day
7/9 BC - 4930-4647m - Halje 7/12
7/14 Tilgaon (4300m)
7/15-7/18 Nalakankar highest 6422m attempted from Tilgaon base. 15th up to 4618m on valley floor, 16th and 17th stayed in camp, 18th up to 5372m in easy climbing and stopped by hanging glacier and too much rain so back to Tilgaon.
7/21 Tilgaon - 7/22 Hilsa
7/24 Hilsa - 7/28 Simikot - Nepalgunj - KTM