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On Italian permit (Losso)

Ama Dablam · 1990 · 가을 (3) · USA

원정 개요

Russell Gordon's account in AAJ of his solo attempt in November 1990:

"I originally intended to try the Lugunak (Southeast) Ridge, but since my companions had backed out in the United States, I switched to a solo effort on the standard southwest ridge. I was added to the permit of a South Tirolean team. After about with pneumonia, I went back to base camp after the departure of the South Tiroleans and started up alone on Nov 1, 1990. The route had been mostly fixed by two strong Italian and English teams, though by the time I arrived, quite a number of ropes were cut or worn through. I tried to free everything but stayed clipped in as much as possible. I went for the summit from a second bivouac, but at the end of the Mushroom Ridge at 21,000 feet, the violent cough and high fever came back, this time with pulmonary edema. I descended to C2 and stayed awake all night, drinking and taking Diamox and Decadron against cerebral impairment. I was very ill, and so at first light I started the tricky down-climbing, rappelling and traversing. I descended to Pangboche where French friends gave me antibiotics."

  • 내부 원정 ID3619
  • 원본 EXPIDAMAD90308
  • 대장Russell Gordon
  • 루트 (Route)SW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6400m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유질병 (7)

참가자 1명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Russell GordonUSALeader---

출처·참고문헌

Gordon, Russell · 1990 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199220802/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Attempt-1990 · 1990 · 웹사이트 (5) ·