원정 개요

BC at normal site for NE Ridge
C1 at normal C2
C2 at normal C2.

C2 only in April because snowing for days, then down after acclimatization. 2 May in C1. 3 May tried to open new route on face for direct line to top but too dangerous snow conditions (deep snow avalanching often). Retraced line to C1 and went to C2. 4 May started new traverse to make direct line left across face and thence up for top on variation of normal route which goes left higher up. Slept in small small C3 at 7400-7500m with steep ice climbing most of way to C3. 5 May to top; started at 4:30 am and was on top just before 9:00 am with wind only close to top. Returned to sleep in C2 by his variation route and 6th in BC.

Italian expedition (Lafaille was on their permit) told Bishnu GC on 26 May that Lafaille shared their kitchen and tents up to C2 - he left them at C2 and soloed ascent.