원정 개요

BC at normal site above Samagaon
C2 just below North Col.

20th April BC to C1; 21st to C2 and two nights there; 23rd C2 to C3 for 2 nights with bad weather (wind & snow). 25th to top in very cold but clean weather. Left for top at 1:00 am on 25th and on top 7:00 am, one at a time so others could film summiter. Slept at 6400m on 25th at 11:00 am because knee deep snow and very tired and weather deteriorated as every day with clouds coming and then snowfall. "Was coldest day ever had in Himalaya" was summit day. All 4 back in BC 26th; Garces with frostbitten toes, which already had suffered frostbite on earlier climbs.