원정 개요

C2 used Todd's Everest tent (West Cwm)
C3 used Todd's tent (Lhotse Face)
C4 same site as Russians (Lhotse Face).

26 May at 2:00 am O'Dowd, Pemba Tenji and Sandy Allan of Henry Todd's team left C4 on summit bid. When got to just before top of couloir, O'Dowd and Allan chose right peak (East Summit) to summit while Pemba refused and went to left peak (Main Summit). Could not see left peak when reached top of right peak because of mist. There had been some discussion about highest peak before climbing, but chose right because right looked more technically interesting while left peak largely snow slope. Right peak difficult rock: "challenging" climb. Sandy Allan chose right one for same reason (and he went ahead of O'Dowd). On right peak 9:45 am while Pemba reported he got to left peak about 9:50 am. All down to C2 same day. Glad to have teamed up with Allan because snow had filled in route and buried ropes so happy to have some one else join in breaking trail (Sandy Allan was member of Henry Todd's Everest/Lhotse Everest Expedition).

Sherpa:
Pemba Tenji, 38, Chatu, Solu, Cho Oyu, Everest X3