원정 개요

BC near Mera Peak BC
ABC/C1 at 300m above Hinku Glacier on east side
C2 on Hinku Nuptse Glacier
High point on NW Ridge.

Tried to do alpine-style ascent from high C1 (5300m) for 2 weeks but bad weather prevented him from going above 5900m. But bottom part of face too much rock and snow avalanching in bad weather (meaning snowfall - so shifted tactics and 13 placed high C2 at 5700m and fixed rope from 5800m long flat area above icefall to 6200m. Spent 10 days fixing rope and down to to BC because food finished and sent cook to Lukla to buy cooking gas, kerosene and food. Returned to high C2 (5700m) on 27 May and started up after 4 days bad weather on 31 May, placed one more rope at about 6250m, down in more bad weather to C2; again up 1 June.

Wife to high C2, but did no climbing.