원정 개요

BC at above junction of 2 glaciers north grass island
C3 at above Great Shelf
High point at SW Face.

Climbed with Hinkes to C1 on 5 May. On 20th May 2:00 am Joos started up from C3 before Hinkes but with Joos was Nima Wangdi Sherpa (Kharikhola) in Indian footprints (was just behind Indians). Nima turned back after 1 hour (Hinkes now 150m behind them) because cold feet. Joos turned back at 4:00 am because worried about avalanches and not confident of success with present lack of fuel and acclimatization. Returned to C3 for brief sleep and down with Nima and Hinkes. All 3 to BC.

Joos expected to make successful ascent starting a few days later but 21-24 May bad weather. 26 May all 3 started up again and reached C2, but a lot of snow up there and decided to go to bring down C2 and climb finished so Joos down to BC same day with Nima. Abandoned climb because not enough time left to succeed in present snow conditions which had avalanche danger and no good prospect of better weather immediately. Nima stayed later to climb with Hinkes who probably left BC today. Only 3 good weather days: snowfall almost every day.