Ama Dablam NW Face Expedition
Ama Dablam · 1989 · 가을 (3) · Yugoslavia
원정 개요
BC at 4700m at Duwo Glacier
High point on N Ridge.
No camps above BC. 2 climbing members together climbed in alpine-style after acclimatization around area (Island peak area, Kalapattar). Started up on 28th Oct for planned series of bivouacs. 28th Oct 6030m from 4900m, start of face. Tried to climb N Face direct but snow conditions very bad so went to via N Couloir to NW Ridge. Impossible to go higher because very soft snow on very steep rock. New route in couloir to ridge. 450m of new route, lower part Yugoslavs same route as Japanese Aut 1980. Steepness up to 85 degrees; no rope fixed; from bottom of face to ridge climbed in 17 hours.
- 내부 원정 ID359
- 원본 EXPIDAMAD89301
- 대장Bojan Pockar
- 루트 (Route)N Face
- 최고 도달고도6030m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유악천후 (4)
참가자 3명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bojan Pockar | Yugoslavia | Leader | - | - | - |
| Vanja Anton Furlan | Yugoslavia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Matjaz Vrtovec | Yugoslavia | Exp Doctor | - | - | - |
출처·참고문헌
Hawley, Elizabeth · 1989 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199022303/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Post-Monsoon-Ascents-and-Attempt · 1989 · 웹사이트 (5) ·