원정 개요

C1 at North Col.

17 May left C3 4:00 am NST Kobler, Pemba Dorje and Hurschler together (Kobler and Pemba Dorje on oxygen, Hurschler without). 10:15 am Kobler and Pemba Dorje on top, Hurschler without oxygen at 11:30 am; Kobler and Pemba Dorje after only 2 Russians; Hurschler last from north side on 17th. All slept in C3 that night.

19 May Fahner left C2 with oxygen at midnight of 18/19 May and went directly to top at 7:00 am, 1st from North (and probably from others side). Pemba Doma left C3 at 2:00 am with Japanese teams Sherpas (some relatives), on top at 9:20 am with Sherpas and slept in C3. Pemba Doma used oxygen from C2 from C3 to top.

On 24 May Chassot on C3 but no higher and down 25 May - decided 25 May expedition finished.

Pemba Doma: Kobler at BC saw she could not used crampons, jummar: some Sherpas tought her at ABC and she learned incredibly "quickly." Kobler told her she could not climb unless knew and she did. Later he told her she must climb with Sherpa on fixed ropes already present; she climbed with Sherpas. She was very strong to his surprise and had "motivation, self confidence and ambition."

Pemba Doma - 8 June 2000: She already knew how to used harness and crampons and carabinier from ascent of Island Peak to its summit in 1996. Her cousin brother-in-law, Nawang Yongden, who works in Rolwaling Trekking and is very experienced climber (3x8000m summits) was BC sirdar and he gave her a lot of advice on what to wear when on mountain; not to let head get cold by its touching tent; how to use oxygen system; to acclimatize by going high, coming down, then going higher. She had to carry all her loads herself because Kobler told expeditions Sherpas not to help her and much of the time she climbed alone. Japanese Sherpas cooked for her at C3, helped her to carry one oxygen bottle to top and let her follow them in their footsteps to top.

She likes mountains and likes to climb but cannot explain why she likes climbing - likes rock climbing especially. Would like to climb Dhaulagiri I: likes "how it looks." Thinks of leading a woman's expedition after 1-2 years but doesn't [know] women to recruit (would be Europeans and Nepalese).