원정 개요

C1 at North Col.

Climbed with Noguchi sometimes. 27 April Tortladze tried to go to North Col alone, reached 6800m and back to ABC because of wind. 28 April to BC. 6 May again up and this time to C1 6 May, 7 May to ABC again, wind C1 to BC. 15 May to ABC, 17 May to C1, 18 May to C2, 19th to C3. 20th May about 20 people went for top: Tortladze started C3 for top at 2:30 am with Tashi, reached 8600-8700m, very strong wind and taking with him Sherpa Lhakpa Gyalzen from Pangboche on Chinese expedition. (This Sherpa was dangerously confused unable to move alone, had no crampons or climbing gear, no gloves on his hands - Tortladze found gloves in Sherpa's rucksack, his jacket open) and Tortladze brought him very slowly to C1. Now climb finished for Tortladze because strong winds now and he was very tired having been at high altitudes long time.

In spring 99 Tortladze had claimed summit, but did not actually get all the way there: Russian Everest expedition said 26 May he told them he had not reached top in 99, was busy taking pictures; now back to get to top this time.