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Everest-K2-C.N.R. 1989 to Pumori

Pumori · 1989 · 가을 (3) · Italy

원정 개요

BC above (1 hour) Gorak Shep near lake
Deposit C1 on rock ridge above lake (where snow began).

1st summit push 16th Sept by Giacometti and Santin. Reached 6400m and turned back because of bad snow conditions underfoot and was snowing.

18th Sept 2nd summit push: Giacometti started from ABC at midnight of 17/18th, reached depot at 1:15 am and left here with them 2:10 am used no fixed rope but were roped together, climbed continuously, slowly to summit, while reached at 9:30 am. "Some tired" at top where stayed about 30 mins. Clouds coming quite foggy and warm with avalanche problem so descended quickly. Reached depot camp at 13:15 hrs. Giacometti stopped 15 mins and was in ABC at 14 hrs. Other 2 down to ABC later after clearing some of depot's gear.

Giacometti's 14-hr round trip beats Batard's 17 hrs in 1988.

  • 내부 원정 ID357
  • 원본 EXPIDPUMO89301
  • 대장Marino Giacometti
  • 루트 (Route)SE Face/Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도7138m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 9명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Marino GiacomettiItalyLeader성공--
Marco BarmasseItalyClimber---
Attilio BerniniItalyExp Doctor---
Kurt DiembergerAustriaClimber---
Sergio GabbioItalyClimber---
Maurizio GalloItalyMember---
Oswald SantinItalyClimber성공--
Ugo SavadriItalyBC Manager---
Giampietro VerzaItalyClimber성공--

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1989 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1989 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199023404/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Post-Monsoon-Ascents-and-Attempt · 1989 · 웹사이트 (5) ·