원정 개요

C1 at North Col.

Went 3 times to C2 site but could only leave supplies there and descend quickly because strong winds, but finally to slept in C2 13 May; 14 May in C3 and 15 May to top. Were first team to top this season and only summiters on 15-17 May. Other summiters was Sherpa woman (no Swiss with her) but first to top that day (19th): next was Afanasiev, next was Sherpa woman with Koreans, Japanese and Chinese, Zakharov and Sedusov. Bokov saw more (one without oxygen) at 3:00 and probably to top as weather was fine. The Sherpani asked Russians for help to go down (said "I'm alone") and Zakharov, Sedusov and Afanasiev helped Pemba Doma Sherpani (of Swiss expedition) down. She did not know how to descend fixed ropes and having trouble, fell and grabbed Afanassiev's foot to get up. At 2nd Step oxygen finished and Zakharov gave her his own oxygen and then had none himself till found 17th members lost oxygen near Step and he then had oxygen again. Afanasiev in C3 at 4:45 pm and others later. Sherpa from other team came down and the Sherpani given to him. 17 May 1st on top were group from south side. Bershov at 10:50 am (Chinese time) was first from north side, next Jakimov, Japanese with Sherpas, other 2 Russians next, then more.

After 19 May bad weather and many teams failed due to strong wind (1 Dane died in fall).