원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

15 May Nazir, Christine and 4 Sherpas started out from C4. Christine without oxygen at first and got to 8200m, started to use oxygen, but too late so turned down to BC with Habeler, who had stayed in C4 and with Zangbu. Nazir and 4 Sherpas reached South Summit on 15 May, returned to South Col and stayed there another night. Then on 16 May left 4 at 10:00 pm with Canadian Ben Webster. Nazir, Lhakpa Gelu and Danuru to top 17 May at 7:38 am; Ben and 2 Dorjes at top 8:15 am. On 17 May Nazir and 4 Sherpas to BC on 17th while Webster stayed at C4 (tired).

Christine reached South Col with Nawang Wangchu 23 May and left for top that night at 10:00 pm and both on top at 6:30 am on 24 May and back to BC that 4:30 pm. Lot of deep snow on Lhotse face, which was "very tiring." Habeler refused to use any oxygen and found he just couldn't make it all the way to the top.


Habeler - 28 May 2000

"It would have been nice to get to the top" but the world is not tumbling down." He used no oxygen - as he hadn't in 1978 and promised Reinhold Messner he would not. Was bemused by today's "unbelievable" scene on Everest with so much crowding and all other changes since 1978.

Sherpa summiters:
Dorje, formerly from Nunthala, now Phakding, Ever X4
Lhakpa Gelu, Kharikhola, brother of Dawa Nuru, Ever X6
"Big Dorje", Thamo, Ever X7
Dawa Nuru/Danuru, Kharikhola, Ever X2
Nawang Wangchu, Chaplung, Kharikhola, Ever X1, Dhaulagiri I