원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse face
C4 at South Col
High point at bottom of Hillary Step.

Members had to do much of their load carrying because not enough Sherpas, so slow to move up to occupy camps. Summit bid from C4 started 20 May 10:45 pm: Temba, Ram Krishna Shrestha and Dangima in summit party. Phurba Thile who turned back after midnight, Dangima to 8826m on Hillary Step and Temba about to this height: Temba fingers could not bend (one finger later improved) because of frostbite, which had started on 20 May at South Col when he took off his gloves for 2-3 minutes while fitting crampon on his boots at about 10:00 pm. At same time Dangima becoming snowblind after taking off goggles because couldn't see well with wind blowing snow. 2 people on top from 8826m and when Ram Krishna reached top they had gone down; he met them on Hillary Step when they giving down and RK going up; RK asked Babu Chiri to return to summit and takes photo of him, but Babu too tired and did not agree. On top could not see clearly. Put down automatic camera to take photo of him holding his banner saying "Newar Nepal" and only blowing snow. In big hurry go down and doesn't remember other items there. Down alone to South Summit where Temba and Dangima waiting for him and three down together with Chiri and Dawa from South Summit to balcony, where this team's to South Col 5:30-6:00 pm and slept there (Dangima sleepless night with snowblindness). C2 on 22 May, BC on 23 May.

Bad management: not enough money: San Miguel Beer gave 2,00,000, RK got Rs 2,00,000 from KTM municipality and Rs 2,00,000 from Padma Ratna Tuladhar's organization for Newari language and culture; spent 2,00,000 on his own down clothing, climbing gear and gave Rs 2,00,000 to Foundation for expedition. Others donated Rs 3,00,000 cash, some equipment and free air tickets. Not enough for food, lodging, coolies from BC to Lukla (they came to KTM to collect). Food had finished in and below C2 on descent, but Temba and Dangima had good down clothing and boots.

When climbers returned to BC, leader had left BC 2-3 days earlier.

Phurba Thile abandoned summit bid on 20 May after 10 minutes climb above Col because legs not functioning. Took him long time to descend to BC and to Pheriche, then coolies carried him to Lukla. In KTM to hospital where legs and were diagnosed as affected by cold (not clear what was cause). Mingma Tshering's legs not in good condition and had high altitude sickness on arrival at BC, went to Pheriche clinic for 3 days.

Ram Krishna Shrestha asked to join expedition by Temba Chiri after Ram Krishna had guided him to top of Island Peak 2 Nov 99.

Temba Chhiri's amputations: his father told Ram Krishna 3 fingers of right hand amputated entirely, perhaps only parts of 2 left fingers amputated, but RK not sure.


Babu Chiri Sherpa - 18 June 2000

Babu Chiri and his father Dawa met Ram Krishna at bottom of Hillary Step (about 8800m) when the two Sherpas were descending from summit. Ram asked Babu to help him go to top, but Babu much too tired and refused. They then descended Step together. Ram made no attempt to continue up. They arrived at balcony together (with Ram's Dangima and Temba from S Summit) and then Babu and Dawa went down faster than Ram's party, leaving them there. Ram's statement that he saw people on top from 8826m not correct: one cannot see summit from Step. On summit were 2 yellow oxygen bottles, one standing up in the snow and very hard to miss (Babu showed his photo). On 7 June 2000 Babu said regarding Temba his attempt on Everest not his own idea - he was "too young - under 20, did have not power."