원정 개요

BC at normal place
C1 at normal
C2 at West Cwm (normal)
C3 at normal
C4 at South Col,

After marking C3 went down for rest at Dingboche after much snow, leaving BC 8 May. Back to BC 12 May and returned to C3 19 May. 20 May at C4 and stayed 21st because of wind and had to wait for one tent for Sherpa came up from below. 21 May left C4 for top at 11:00 pm by Anna and Pasang Tshering (from Thami, not atop Everest before but doesn't know about other 8000ers) with 2 bottles being carried by Anna and Pasang carrying 3 (2 for him and 1 more for Anna). Pasang slower because having trouble with oxygen and not so strong, but Anna going very well, but here 2nd oxygen bottle almost finished (1st not full). Reduced flow from 2 liters/min to 1/2 litres "and I run" for top where she arrived at 10:00 am exactly, ahead [of Pasang]. Weather not clear from snowfall and could see only North Ridge from there. "I was very happy to be on Hillary Step alone, had heard it would be very crowded." Got half bottle from Pasang and it was finished at balcony. Reached South Col 6:30 pm, very later waiting for Pasang then went slowly and Anna and Pasang reached Col together last 200m Anna found in descent. 23 May slept in C3 to be comfortable in descent, 24 May to C2 and BC on 25 May. When reached top first thought of her mother who had died on 12 May (Anna heard about 14 May) and who had wanted Anna to climb. Felt happy only when returned to C2 and no longer have to concentrate on climbing. Now had done all of "the seven summits" and finally summited Everest which had tried to do from North in '97, 98, 99 where had simply had had bad luck.

Pasang Tshering (not Chirri), 27/2/73, Thami, 1st 8000er