원정 개요

BC at Chinese
C1 at normal spot.

The three other members: Ari Piela went only went to C2 and was altitude sick; Loveto and Wiklund only went to C2. Gianni Loveto left BC early on 9th May, due to frostbite on fingers that he got above C1 on 1 May when he spent the night out above the ice cliff at 6700m. He spent the night there because it got dark and he was exhausted. He had a sleeping bag. Duncan Chessell found him there the next morning and helped him down to ABC. Chessell reports Loveto was "nuts", mentally crazy.

Sherpa summiters:
Pem Tenji Sherpa, Sotang, 1963, Dhaulagiri I
Pemba Nuru, Ghat, 17 Jan 70, 1st 8000er

On May 17 a Belgium man (Chessell did not know name) at 8:00 am the Belgium doctor diagnosed him with "cerebral hemorrhage" or with a stroke. The Belgium man was bleeding into his brain. (He could not even put boots on). The Belgium doctor put him on [Arun Trek's] oxygen and gave him medicine for a stroke (cortizone). The Belgium leader called on the satellite phone to get a helicopter to go the Nepal side of Nangpa La. The helicopter could not arrive until the 18th May. Chessell and a Sherpa (Tengi) went with Belgium team to carry the sick man to the border in a litter in the middle of the day on May 17th. They set up camp to wait for the helicopter the next morning. The sick Belgium man and doctor flew out on the morning of 18 May from Nangpa La at 11:00 am (Nepalese time).

* This Belgium man was also having seizures, not long after he could no longer put on his boots around 8 or 9 pm (Chinese time).

* Winter in Ama Dablam 2000 Nov-Dec will be coming also to Cho Oyu in Autumn.