원정 개요

Made steps at about 1-1/2 hour above Gorak Shep at south end of large lake
C1 at behind summit of small ridge.

Made steps in very deep snow and after this, other expeditions used Hupfauer's steps made at 6200m on 3rd Oct and down to BC (saw at 6200m empty tent of Spaniards; did not know about their fatal avalanche). Rested at BC 4th and then went with surviving Spaniard to bodies of 4 dead, 5th brought them to glacier in next days with DAV members and buried in grave. After this not too keen to climb, but started up on 8th and fixed C1 and down again 10th slept in C1 and 11th thought could go to top, moved slowly up in deep snow and on to 6850m but now in cloud with no visibility. Down to C1. On 12th snow harder and slightly easier to move and on up despite clouds. Started at 6 am and on top at 2 pm in clear visibility for last 60m and at 5 pm back at C1.