원정 개요

BC at South of Fluted Peak on grass bottom of face MacIntyre camp.

Started actual climb 27 Sept when left BC for ABC. Next climb was 18 hours ("all night and little morning") surmounting dangerous rock-avalanche area to biv at 7100m. To 7250m biv took all day artificial climbing, very difficult steep section of broken rock where 1 man fell twice and other one once. From 7600m to 7800m again rock which was very steep but "very nice to climb," not rotten. Reached Middle Summit on 3 Oct and slept in 7800m biv. 4th Oct descended all way to 5600m in 15 hrs, helped by moonlight but with no fixed ropes in perhaps first such descent in Himalaya.

Route used to go up was same as MacIntyre used and very dangerous to 6700m from rockfall in day time so climbed entirely at night. Descent route very near Polish 1981 spring route.


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 9 Oct 1984

2 members
Erich Lucas 22, alpine guide, Barcelona
Nil Bohigas, 25 guide, Barcelona

Summit via South Face without oxygen 3 Oct 12:20 hours. Clear but windy weather, stayed 90 minutes, took photos from all angles; left 13:50 hours and returned to lost biv at 15:30 hours; put Nepal, Spanish flags and khata on top. Leave BC 10 Oct.