원정 개요

C1 sited slightly different from plan to avoid soft deep snow and get onto rock. Route above C2 not changed from plan. Weather very bad: much snow and strong wind. Summiters started 6:30 am and on top 3:00 pm, very tired in wind blowing snow and fog (could see 3m only); on top 5-6 min only, could not stand in wind) back to C4 6:15 pm same day. Left on top a snowbar with carabinier and flag of mountain school. Had reached on East Peak at 12:30 pm also in bad weather and poor visibility and little tired, but after 10-15 mins weather better and decision taken by leader and team they should proceed to top.

Route not difficult. Total 4575m rope fixed C1 to E Peak almost entire route (E Peak about 600m from C5). Many avalanches but very lucky and no one hurt (Rinji making route to C5 hit and fell 100m but after on hour's rest was Ok).

Oxygen was taken for expedition, but difficulties with it prevented its use.