원정 개요

BC at normal side
C2 just west of French 1950 route
High point at North Face just above C2.

4-5 days after evacuating C2 huge avalanche threw snow on C1 and covered entire route in big area with big ice blocks. 15th April went 100m above C2 to look at route above and decided too big a danger of avalanching to be acceptable and went down to BC that day. Hoped to see feasible alternative route to the east but when biggest avalanche any of this team had ever seen by far came, they abandoned any idea of any route on North Face. Want to go back to North Face?: "No" emphatically said Viesturs and others. [There is] not a line that is not threatened by seracs: very different from pictures of 1950 French climb. Viesturs wants to go back to Annapurna, perhaps by Messner route on North Face in spring 1985 which is probably safest route on this mountain.