원정 개요

BC south of Nilgiri South
ABC at end of Glacier and start of steep climbing
High point at SW Ridge.

Central part of South Face too dangerous from falling rock and ice, so changed route to South Face of SW Ridge. From ABC made no more camps but tried to reach top in one push. Did not go up on 9th because clouds over Annapurna suggested bad weather so instead down to BC. Back to ABC by 4 members on 11 Oct. Started up at 12:30 am of 12th and reached ridge, but in darkness climbed wrong couloir and rock of ridge too difficult, so back to BC on 12th. 16th Kovac and Golob up again while Flis and Lacen left same day because not well. Kovac and Golob to ABC 16th evening and route up 4:30 am and reached ridge at 12:00 at 6100m. From there followed ridge to 6600m at 2:30 pm when strong winds, fog and falling snow meant could not see and snow conditions on ridge difficult, so down and arrived ABC at 11:00 pm. Now stove not working so nothing to drink. Left only 4 pitons on South Face in descent. Did not make another summit bid because got slightly frostbitten fingers. Had slightly underestimated mountain and equipment needed in cold temperature (better gloves and boots needed).