원정 개요

Spent 3 nights in C2 to extend fixed ropes place by Japanese to 50m below C3 (to 7350m) and down on 19th to C1 because tired. Had too much of equipment and kerosene and clothes; fixed on things instead of efficiently climbing; lack of experience. Promoted kitchen boy to sirdar who had no climbing experience. 20th to BC. Up on 25th ABC, 26th to C1 and 27th C2; 29th up 7300m but former kitchen boy refused to go higher because 8 fingers frostbitten (slightly) and returned to C2. Gave up that day because cold and irrational anger with Gurung and even with Na Temba. Returned to BC 1st Jan and waited for Na Temba to clear camps.