원정 개요

BC
ABC at glacier moraine south of South Face
C1 at South Spur.

2nd summit party including Poole to C1 only - because afterwards light snowfall so climbed at night. 3rd summit bid planned for 30 Sept, but all day continuous snowfall.

26 Sept party did round trip in 12 hours and 2 hours more to ABC. 28 Sept about 15 hours C1->top->C1.

Not very difficult (mostly 35-degree snowslope). To reach C1 300m 50-degree ice and above C1 one 40-ft vertical serac; fixed rope at both places (200m in first point and 250 at serac and others at 50+ degree slopes). Used first ropes at 2nd place also. Had to fix rope and build 3 bridges also in gorge of Jagdula Khola.

Returned from BC by slightly different route.