원정 개요

Biv 1 on North Face
Biv 2 on North face.

6th Oct from BC to point 6700m to acclimatize (1 day walk round trip). 9th started all together from BC to unclimbed Siguang Ri (6998m) and some to Siguang Ri (7309m). East Ridge ascent and South Face descent by Meglic while Navrsnik stopped 200m below top because cold traveresed South Face and both descended together. Siguang Ri summiter to Shar summit. Returned BC 12 Oct.

15th all 8 to ABC but not slept there (back to ABC). Then bad weather with heavy snowfall 18-20th. 23rd to ABC to make trail and back to BC. 26th 4 to ABC to sleep intending to go Gyachang Kang North Face on 27th, but 2 got asphyxiation trouble from gas stove and all 4 to BC instead. 27th other 4 (Jacofcic, Meglic, Meznar and Navrsnik) to ABC and 28th started up North Face and biv at 6800m on North Face. 29th stayed in biv because of wind. 30th Meglic and Navrsnik down tired (no sleep for 2 nights because of wind noise) and Jakofcic and Meznar to 2nd biv 7500m and 31st to top and back to 7500m biv. 31st other 4 members joined there in 7500m biv. 1st Nov other 4 to top and back to biv at 7500m at 1:00 pm Chinese time (faster by 1-2 hours then 1st 4 members because 1st 4 had more problem with altitude and all 6 together down but only 4 to ABC because Meznar fell and others had to stop all in BC on 2nd Nov after rescuing Meznar. 3rd Nov yaks arrived at ABC.

* Prezelj on 1st Nov in descent fell and couldn't walk without one person on each side because had lost his balance - was bleeding from nose and other injuries. Can't remember to today his fall and on 2nd couldn't remember his last name nor do simple arithmetic.

To first 50-60 degree snow slope and not difficult. Most difficult part was biv 1 to 2: this season mostly snow, but in a few parts mixed snow and rock and here snow conditions were poor, powdered snow. A traverse from last snow field to top, climbers expedition together but snow Ok. Ok to climb this face alpine-style, but traditional style with fixed camps would be very difficult.