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International Dhaulagiri Expedition 99

Dhaulagiri I · 1999 · 가을 (3) · USA

원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at slightly above NE Col
C2 on NE Ridge
C3 on NE Ridge.

30 Sept down to BC for rest and weather had worsened. All in BC for eight days snowfall (2m snowfall at BC) and wait for avalanches to stop. Team into 3 groups of members and moved up in rotation; 1st group up on 9th, 2nd on 11th and 3rd on 15th. Ginette and Gary up in 13th group but came down from C2 because member 11th group did not evacuate C2 to make space for 13th party. Walter and Strausz up with 13th group, stayed in C1, C2 on 14th, C3 on 15th, top and back C3 on 16th (on top at 2:30 pm by Walters and 4:00 pm Strausz at 4:00 pm - had left C3 5:30 am). 17th down to C1 and 18th to BC.

Next serious summit bid on 22 Oct by Harrison, Pfisterer and Shaw to C1, C2 23 Oct and on up towards C3 24 Oct but fatal avalanche struck at about 6750m (less than hour from C2) at about 9:00 am. Searched for several hours with help from French and Czechs but not any trace of 2 who died (swept down 1000m on North Face into crevasse, speculation says, then to C1 for night.


Climber Harrison killed in Himalayas

Kathmandu. Oct 27 (Reuters)- Well-known British climber Ginette Lesley Harrison died in an avalanche on the world's 7th highest mountain. Dhaulagiri I on last Sunday, a hiking official said on Wednesday.
"We lost Ginette," Murali Sharma, chief of the Panvar Trekking agency that was handling the expedition, said quoting a message from her climber husband Gary Pfisterer, who was leading the climbing team.
An avalanche hit the 41-year-old Harrison at an altitude above 6500m between camp two and camp three, Gary told Sharma by satellite phone from the mountain. He gave no further details.
Harrison was part of an American expedition to the 8167 meters (26,795 ft) Dhaulagiri I peak through the normal northeast ridge route in Nepal's central Himalayas.
A Sherpa guide of the team was also killed in the avalanche, Sharma said.
Harrison, the only woman to have reached the 8586 metre (28,169 ft) Kangchenjunga summit, the third highest in the world was living in Monson, Mass with her American husband.
She was one of the 52 women from all nations and the second of three British women to have climbed the 8848 meter (29,038 ft) Everest summit.
Harrison had also climbed the fifth highest mountain, Makalu, Cho Oyu (the sixth) and Shishapangma, the last of 14 mountain peaks that are taller than 8000 meter (26,246 ft).

  • 내부 원정 ID3442
  • 원본 EXPIDDHA199306
  • 대장Gary Pfisterer
  • 루트 (Route)NE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8167m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 11명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Gary Scott PfistererUSALeader---
Ginette Lesley HarrisonUKDeputy Leader--사망
Kevin Baptiste DuckUSAClimber---
Constantin LacatusuRomaniaClimber---
Jeffrey R. (Jeff) LamoureuxUSAClimber---
Scott LewallenUSAClimber---
Christopher ShawUSAClimber---
Thomas StrauszAustriaClimber성공--
James C. TalbotUSAClimber---
David WallisAustraliaClimber---
Paul WaltersAustraliaClimber성공--

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1999 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1999 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://www.lacatusu.ro · 1999 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200035802/Asia-Nepal-Post-Monsoon-in-the-Nepal-Himalaya · 1999 · 웹사이트 (5) ·