원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at NE Col hoping to go to top of East Face
C2 on NE Ridge
C3 on NE Ridge
High point at C3.

Intended to climb East Face and made a camp very near face to see conditions; was at 5700m on 12 Sept just over the Col, where Czechs later camped for NE Ridge climb. Went closer to East Face on 13 Sept and 14 up NE Ridge to 6500m to acclimatize and down to BC. 18th to advance BC for face and 19th again up closer to face to see its condition and but all rock and decided route impossible, so 20th to C2 on NE Ridge and climbed normal route. 22nd down to BC because of heavy snowfall. C2 again 28th. 29th to C3 and back to C2 in more bad weather and 30 Sept to BC. 12 Oct to C3 and slept there but 13 Oct very cold and strong wind and down to BC. When returned to C1 and C2 tents almost buried under snow and digging them out made them very tired. Never actually "touched" East Face, "just looked."