원정 개요

BC west of point 5212m on moraine below Island Peak
C1 near foot of Cho Polu's West Face
C2 at Hardie Col on North Ridge.

Deep snow on route from Chhukung to BC and had to slow trail after very heavy snowfall of 18-20 Oct and had to carry loads from Island Peak BC, where yaks stopped. From BC moved north on moraine below to point 5357m, then crossed glacier, eastwards to big stone at 5340m, where made depot on 29 Oct and returned to BC. 1 Nov went from BC to depot and north from it to rocky foot of Cho Polu's West Face; made camp slightly west of foot of West Face and of Hardie Col. 2 Nov up towards Col but reached about 150m below it because slow progress with heavy loads on backs and deep snow. Made biv here and on 3 Nov moved tents up to highest point on Col. Hoped to proceed on North Ridge but many big cornices and 2 steep rock steps and exposed to strong cold wind. To move on ridge is serious climbing. Stayed 1 day on Col because wind too strong to leave tents. 5 Nov winds slightly lower and down to BC. Rested in BC 6-8 Nov. 9 Nov made and the push to top and slept in C1. 10 Nov to C2. 11 Nov crossed to east side of Col, roped down about 7m on rock face and from there traversed south to summit. This day went to check snow conditions and returned to C2. 12 Nov left C2 4:30 am made entire way to bergschrund at 6:00 am and top at 10:00 am. Stayed an hour on top in very nice weather foot of North Face and climb on North Face and "incredible view" said Rieck. Returned to bergschrund at 1:00 pm and at Col at from 2:00 to 3:00 pm and slept in C2. 13 Nov down to C1 to sleep. BC on 14 Nov. All four members moved together everyday.