원정 개요

Left ABC with Batard for summit push with 2 Sherpas going ahead placing tents and making route. 14th both slept at 6000m; 15th Batard to ABC, 15th Collet stayed at 6000m arrived there; 16th up to C1 at 6400m with Lazzaroni; 17th and 18th stayed there; 19th Collet and Batard (he arrived). Batard and Phurba Sherpa taken down 200m by avalanche (not hurt only frightened): Batard insisted on taking direct route instead of normal route and big mistake, could not see in dark - had left camp at 11:00 pm of 19th and climbed through night. Avalanche at 7:00-8:00 am when too late to change route - had moved up at only 50m/hr in deep snow. All down to ABC 5:00 pm of 20th ("very long day"). Batard now left expedition despite being hired guide - ("I am not a dog") - big argument. Collet up from ABC 26 Sept with Lazzaroni and Phurba. 27th Tarke arrived ABC and left ABC with Collet and Lazzaroni (who turned back), but Collet and 2 Sherpas up to C2. 27th midnight Collet, her 2 Sherpas with Muller left C2 for top and arrived at top 2 pm: returned C2 at 6:00-7:00 pm. 29th to ABC. On top in clouds: could see no mountain nothing but reached end of other's tracks from 27th.

Sherpas:
Ang Phurba, 1969, Lukla, his 1st 8000er
Tarke, 1967, Kurima, Solu, Cho Oyu Sept 1998