원정 개요

C1 at normal site
C2 on plateau just before normal C2.

1st to Xixabangma, then to Cho Oyu. Took 3 hours to reach C1 because chose wrong line. No C3 - planned to go non-stop from ABC to top but bad weather delayed ascent and decided to make 2 camps above Oct at 6:00 pm Chinese time. Left C2 for top without rucksack - at 1-1/2 hrs at 7150m (normal C2 site) rested there in tent left by Czechs 30 minutes, then up again (with head lamps), followed tracks of others where visable but some slab avalanche danger. Wind started up now. Reached normal C3 3 hours after left normal site. Now left very weak and became slow and felt cold. Normal C3 2 hours to rock band but carried on ascent any way. Track now very good and wind pushing him in first part, second part of climb strong wind against him, just slowly still up. Now began sleeping while walking and found endless and didn't reach summit, but 50m vertical short of it. Then return 9:30 am to tent at 6850m. Frostbitten toes slightly. Waited in tent for sun to hit tent and left tent about 1:00 pm to descend to ABC and arrived 9 Oct 8:00 pm.