원정 개요

C2 pitched 30 Sept
High point at C2.

Normal route (made trail) summiters left C3 1:30 am (NST) and on top 1:00 pm with Koreans and McGuinness. Returned C3 5:00 pm. 1st Oct Kitamura started from C2 0:45 pm and on top 12:30 pm making new trail; did not see Everest in cloud but little later did from same point; down to C2 at 4:45 pm.

SW Face route:

Kitamura solo alpine-style: started from ABC 27 Sept 5:00 pm; climbed all night and reached 7200m at 4:00 am 24 Sept. Rested to hour and tried to climb higher, but snow knee-deep and very very tired. Biv at 7300m for that night. 25 Sept tried again up rock band but snow conditions bad, tried wrong route, up and different route but soft snow in hot sun and abandoned this attempt 7380m and returned to biv at 7300m. Rock band covered by soft snow and only 2 day's food and gas left, so gave up since only 100m gained in 2 days. Biv 26 Sept very slow descent because heart palpitations. Slept at bottom of the wall on moraine at 6100m. 27 Sept 9:00 am returned to ABC - had followed Kurtyka route.