원정 개요

BC north of Dzapema at Kyatrak (Gyalosag Glacier west side)
ABC probably Dzapema (highest yak point, not much used)
Recce camp
Biv on Tichy route.

Vos made a trial climb to 6600m on Palung Ri on 27th April. Then bad weather and on 28th April both down to 5500m for 9 nights awaiting good weather. 6 May again to 6000m (both members) and on 7th May both to 6300m. On 8th & 9th Vos alone reached 6500m, then back to 6000m on 9th. 10th to C1 of Tichy route (no one else on mountain now) at 6700m & on up to top. Meanwhile Boom moved a camp to 7800m and waited for Vos and he descended there on 13th after having slept at 7500m on summit night. Summit was a lot of different hills with no clear top but found Chinese marker. 1st route Vos attempted is climbable with less snow (less avalanches on 65-degree steep ice at 6500m) and more time. Vos was alone 4 days (3 nights) after having left Austrians retreating from mountain at very low camp and having left Boom for his successful summit bid.

On first route (NNW Face) Vos left 6300m biv on 8th but had ice and avalanching sent him back to bivouac. On 9th again up, this time via couloir and again reached 6500m but more avalanching and stood there 2 hours in midst of avalanches, then managed to abseil back ("I survived") and abandoned this route in favour of Tichy route. Had snowed 7th afternoon.

Bart Vos and Ms Annette Boom, formally members of the expedition led by Marcus Schmuck, constituted their own mini-expedition and at first attempted a route different from the normal route followed by the main party: they tried to climb the north-northwest face, made two bivouacs at 6000m and 6300m, and Vos alone reached a high point of 6500m on 65 degree hard ice but then was driven off this face by serious avalanching on two successive days (8 and 9 May). He believed his line could be climbed successfully when there is less snow to avalanche on it. They then went to the normal (Tichy) route after all other climbers had left it, made two bivouacs here (at 6700m and 7500m), and Vos went alone to the summit on 12 May.