원정 개요

BC at normal site for North Face climb
C2 350m from start of Dutch Rib (normal site)
C3 slightly above Dutch Rib.

Did not attempt NW Face at all because of much unstable snow. Early Oct frequent avalanching (had accident on 1 Oct).

2 summit attempts: on 26th Oct by 3 members [Valtchev, Iliev and Natchev] from C4 and reached 8050m, then very cold strong wind began to get frostbite and turned back to C2 (Natchev slightly serious but should heal).

2nd attempt on 28th Oct by other Ianakiev, Metkov, Stoykov, Panayotov and all except Metkov reached summit; left C4 2:30 am and on top about 11:30 am to noon (moved separately and reached summit separately). Metkov feet getting frostbitten and moved slowly, turned back to warm his feet, again up to 7500m, where he met Stoykov who was coming from summit (Stoykov last to descend, other 2 summiters already in C4). Metkov and Stoykov descended together from 7500m; at about 3:15 pm there was walkie-talkie contact; weather condition changed suddenly with thick clouds and they could not find their way, could see no recognition points; at 16:15 pm with group going from C2 to C3 they said saw many things falling from above them and going down below and 17:00-17:30 pm others in C2 found many personal belongings of Metkov and Stoykov (crampon, boot, clothing, etc.) but no bodies near C2. 29th Oct high camps evacuated. Helicopter for 3 members from BC to KTM because very bad frostbite Ianakiev and Panayotov fingers and toes, Natchev not so bad toes only. 2nd Nov left for Sofia.

1 Oct avalanche only other accident
1 member (Natchev) not serious frostbite when above 7800m