원정 개요

BC at Hingu Glacier south of Island Peak
C1 below Humsila Col of North Ridge
2nd BC west of West Col
C1 at West Col
C2 at bottom of SE Ridge
High point on SE Ridge.

Much fresh snow in couloir; on 29 Sept Massimo and Phuri Sherpa up 250m towards Col but abandoned this route. Berti developed bad altitude sickness and Spurrier returned to BC that evening and Massimo also to BC that day. But now only 2 members so climb difficult with reduced members. 30th cleared C1 and 1 Oct moved BC and arrive site near other teams (normal BC). Much fresh snow kept falling. 8th tried for top but many avalanches and very dangerous and return BC same day.