원정 개요

BC at usual site
C1 at West Col.

Oct 14 set up C1. All members were there and down to BC. On 16th a team of six: 4 members Collins, Davey, Wannerton, Veitch, Benegas (leader) and one Sherpa went up to C1. On 18th leader and a member returned to BC. Rest (3 members and Sherpa) stayed in C1. There was a storm in the night. On 19th in the morning the leader went up to bring down the members and the Sherpa. 19th spent the night in C1. Due to difficulty in navigation in the fresh snow of about 1-1/2 meters deep, breaking/cutting trail, they (leader and Sherpa Lhakpa Gelu) had to take off their goggles; they got snowblindness. On 20th the two were rescued from BC to Kathmandu by helicopter. Six members were transported to Lukla same day. On 21/22nd two members and rest of staff evacuated to Lukla. All of them to returned to KTM on Oct 27th.

The expedition left five tents and supplies including personal climbing gear in C1. The leader plans to go back to C1 probably on Nov 1 to retrieve the camp. Before that he wants to go on a mountain flight to assess the snow conditions in the mountains using binoculars.

The expedition team plans to leave Nepal on Oct 30. The leader will leave on Dec 2. He said he is going to attempt Lobuche, Island Peak and the two others in Khumbu Himal during winter.

PS: He said a French trekking group left garbage scattered, about a full load by one porter in the south edge at the base of West Col. He went to find out the trekking agency and report that to the Ministry.