원정 개요

BC south-southwest of Pisang village
ABC on glacier SSW of Pisang
C1 at top of vertical ice field
C2 200m below East-West ridge of Annapurna II and IV (last camp for Annapurna IV)
C3 on Annapurna II's West Ridge.

After C3 made all down to ABC because bad weather (daily snowfall and strong wind). Started up 18th Sept and Annapurna IV reached from C2; Annapurna IV not so difficult; fixed 3000m rope from ABC to C3. On 21st Sept 3 members [Kim, Jeong, Lee] and 2 Sherpas [Lhakpa and Pasang] from C3 at 5:30 am and 2 Sherpas felt danger from avalanche on Pokhara side and from 7500m to top route vertical so all returned to C3 at 7:30 am. 2 Sherpas down to ABC and 1 member [Lee] with headache stayed in C3 while 2 others left C3 at 8:00 am for top and reached top 5:30 pm. At 3:30 pm last walkie-talkie contact (were not seen after 3:00 pm) and Jeong said had stomach problem from altitude but Kim Ok and they would biv 600m below summit. When no contact next day, Chang and 2 Sherpas up from ABC early AM 22nd worried some accident and reached C3 at 11:00 am (no one in C3 now because member with headache had gone down on 21st to C2). Chang saw no sign of summiters and thinks they fell down south (PKR) side of ridge 21st or 22nd Sept. Chang reached ridge before turning back in bad weather (wind and coming snowfall).


Chong - 8 Feb 1990

Expedition's printed report says that at 2:00 pm on summit day, the summit party had their last walkie-talkie contact. They said "there is no big difficulty from here to summit. We are now at a rocky area just below summit and we will reach summit immediately. On the way back from the summit, we will make a bivouac for the night." They fell at 5:30 pm while coming down after having reached summit.

Chong talked with leadership after they returned to KTM. Has no idea where the time of 5:30 pm for their fall came from. Climbing leader told Chong summit was just a few minutes from top and he had no doubt they reached summit. He thought they might have fallen on the Pokhara side of mountain since no trace was found of them or the path of their fall on north side. In their last radio contact they said they would contact next from their bivouac but never did come on radio again.

Chong is Korean mountaineering journalist who runs a lodge in KTM.

Anna IV summited by Jo Won-Bae, Jeong Joon-Mo and Dawa Sherpa.