원정 개요

BC near Germans this autumn.

20th Oct from BC to deposit & see face; much dangerous ice falling so climbed only at night; no fixed camps.

1st biv on 21 Oct at German's C1 site (German's left 22 Oct) at 5000m;
2nd biv on 22 Oct at 5000m on glacier.
3rd biv on 23 Oct at 5200m on glacier.

Oct 24th, searched for route above; midnight of 24/25th started up; at 8:00-9:00 am reached plateau above serac below pass; 4th biv here at 6000-6100m.

Oct 25/26th midnight left 4th biv, 4:00 am reached pass between Glacier Dome & Fluted Peak; slept 2 hrs at pass (6300m). After reaching top at 6:00 am, descended to tent below pass at 8:00 pm - very dangerous with many seracs; slept 27th at the biv.

Next problem was descent across icefall which did during night of 27/28th, abseiling all the way; here many new avalanches.

Team had no climbing permit.